Lay the brace in place on top of the spacers. Lay down your spacer blocks where the 45' meet the bracket arms. Then measure from the point A to point b. Now lay down your square in the crotch of the two boards.
The clamp will hold the 22.5" in place so you can line everything up nicely. Take your 3 1/2" screws and screw the two pieces together. The 24" will cap the end grain of the 22.5". Take the 24" and lay it perpendicular to the 22.5". Take your two bracket arms 1 24" and 1 22.5". If you are making a different size the step b tells how I came up with the brace length.) A. BUILDING AND FIGURING (You can skip step B if you are making a 24"x24" bracket. 2-1" spacing blocks (3.5"-1.5" equals 2" divided by 2 equals 1") These blocks are used to space your brace up to the correct height while mounting the brace to the bracket arms. (This is how I came to this measurement the easy way. This will be cut with 45's through the width of the board. 1-22.5" (This is how I came to this measurement.) 24" (Length of bracket) minus 1.5" (2x4 thickness) 3. So you can figure out your own cut list) So for 1-24"x24" bracket you will need 1. But it will inform you of my thought process. CUT LIST (this will change if you are making different size brackets. If you still don't understand this just YouTube stop block on miter saw. It greatly increases your speed and accuracy of cuts. Then you just bump your lumber up to it, cut that piece, put it in a stack, then cut the next piece. It is simply a stopping point on your compound miter saw that you adjust to your length of cut. If you are not familiar with a stop block. I like to use stop blocks to cut my pieces. I decided to make a 24" wide x 24" long bracket arms with a 45 degree brace. I'm going to just use the bracket size I decided on in my explanation, but I will explain how I came to certain measurements. A glued joint is a stronger joint, but is unnecessary for this project if done as I have. If you would like you can glue your joints. I explain more about this at the end in the IMPORTANT: section. Note: I didn't feel the need to glue my joints, but some feel it would be an idea to consider. I can hang between my bracket spacing any it doesn't sag much. F.4' is what I felt was efficient for my needs. E.19/32" this is fairly cheap and strong enough to spread my brackets. A.124" available clearance B.20" for my plastic bins with wiggle room C.79" for my shelving units D.24" I decided on this because 24 is a good depth for my bins and I could get Lowes to rip my sheets in half for free. Here where my decisions based on what I laid out above. Then you can execute a perfect project that fits your needs. Planning is the most important step in any project. Helps to estimate your number of brackets.
Bracket spacing depending on plywood thickness. Thickness of plywood and length of bracket you are making.
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